Post #171 20 May 2018

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our stay in Isfahan (aka Esfahan), 9 - 11 April 2018.

Isfahan has a nice ring to it, rolls off the tongue, and didn't disappoint: the tree-lined avenues, the parks, the ancient bridges (pity the river was dry!), the huge square with its magnificent mosques and bazaar.

Isfahan lies about 1,500 meters above sea level, on the vast, semi-arid plateau which forms most of Central Iran.  Its population is close to 2 million. The city really came into its own as the capital of the Safavid Empire, following the crowning of Shah Abbas 1st in 1587.

Here are some photos of our time in Isfahan.

This map shows the location of Isfahan, almost due south of Tehran.  It also shows the other major cities we visited: Yazd, Kerman and finally Shiraz.  They are all situated on a huge semi-arid plateau, about 1,500 meters above sea level.

Our hotel was on this nice, tree-lined street.  This 'garden city' has lots of trees and parks.

The centerpiece of Isfahan is Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square, built in 1602, 512m x 163m; only Tiananmen Square in Beijing is larger. The photo shows the KakAli Qapu h-e Palace on the right, the Masjed-e Shah Mosque at the far end, and the exquisite Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque on the left (there is an underground tunnel from the Palace to this mosque, as the Royals worshiped there).  Shops called Bazar-e Bozorg ring the Square.

The Bazar-e Bozorg shops ring the Square and feature many different kinds of handicrafts.

Isfahan is famous for its handicrafts, including hand-woven carpets.  This salesman gave our group an informative lecture on aspects of Persian carpets.

Here Zahra is helping Hartmut and Ruth get information on this beautiful carpet.  It was special because it was "double-sided" - one carpet but with different designs on each side.  Exquisite.

This shop specialised in intricate enamelware.

This artist did miniature paintings (often on camel-bone). His son, in the leather jacket, spoke good English and explained the process to us.

Yet another shop, this time specialising in traditional textiles (we bought a tablecloth and some runners).

A group of friends having a picnic in the main Square. There were lots of people around, including many family groups.

Zahra explaining details of the majestic Masjed-e Shah Mosque. 

Some of the intricate mosaic designs inside the Mosque.

The amazing domed ceiling in the Mosque.

A night view of the Masjed-e Shah Mosque.

The garden of the Mosque had a section reserved for educational talks on Islam.  

We spent about half-an-hour discussing aspects of Islam with this Mullah.

Another view of the Mullah talking to our group.  Sitting under that tree, it could have been a scene out of the Bible.

On the high terrace of the Ali Qapu Palace.  The terrace has good view of the Square; allegedly the Shah and Royal Family used to watch polo games from this vantage point (the Square incorporated a polo ground before it was replaced by a fountain and gardens).  This part of the Palace also features a Throne Room, and a Music Room upstairs which has stucco walls and ceiling cut-outs of vases and other utensils to enhance the acoustics.

The Chehel Sotun Palace, behind the Ali Qupa Palace, features a magnificent Reception Hall with a 9th century Koran and vivid frescos portraying court life and military battles during the Safavid era.  This Palace is also known as the "Palace of 40 Pillars" because of the many pillars on the front terrace before the main entrance into the Reception Hall (but there are actually only 20 Pillars - maybe count the reflection in the pool?).

One evening Zahra took us to the Azadegan Teahouse, off the north-eastern corner of the Square. It was a long narrow restaurant with an amazing collection of "junk" hanging from walls and ceiling, every square inch as covered! We were certainly off the tourist track here and it was great to soak in the local atmosphere.  The photo shows Jim Short, Millie Young and Jenny Osborne studying the menu.

Our dinner at the Azadegan Teahouse: fresh carrot juice and chicken kebab served on pita bread - delicious - and the lot cost less than $4.  If you live like the locals, the cost of living is low in Iran.

We visited the Vank Cathedral (aka the Church of St Joseph) which was built by the Armenian Christian community.  During the Safavid - Ottoman Wars of 1603 - 1618 Shah Abbas The First forced up to 500,000 Armenian Christians to move to Central Iran; it is estimated that more than half died on the trek, the remainder ended up in Isfahan and surrounding villages. Their entrepreneurial skills enabled them to survive and prosper. Jolfa, as the Armenian Quarter of Isfahan is known, is now an upmarket area featuring boutiques and cafes. 

The interior of the Armenian Museum adjacent to the Vank Cathedral.  The Armenians have certainly made significant contributions to Iran over the centuries.

This group of visitors was taking photos outside the Museum next to the Vank Cathedral.

A group of children attending the primary school in the grounds of the Vank Cathedral. The Armenian minority is allowed to have its own schools (and teach Armenian language) and clubs and churches.

We visited the Isfahan Music Museum which was located in Julfa, the Armenian Quarter.  It is a privately owned and operated Museum with an impressive range of exhibits.

Our guide showed us how the instruments were played; there were several really unusual instruments, such as this "jug" in his hands.

At the end of the tour we were entertained by a 15 minute concert. It was a wonderful tour and concert.

This lady was part of the concert, playing a kind of xylophone.

Isfahan is built along the shores of the Zayandeh River.  Eleven bridges cross the river 5 old (most built during the Safavid era) and 6 new.  We visited the Si-o-Seh Bridge built in 1602 by Verdi Khan one of Shah Abbas's generals.  It is 298 meters long, with 33 arches.  Unfortunately the Zayandeh River is dry at the moment - Zahra blamed reduced rainfall this year, coupled with water extracted upstream for industry (steel mills, and some say nuclear plants) - it did bring home forcibly the water problem facing many parts of Iran.

Under the arches is a popular gathering spot for locals.

There are lovely parks along the river - families having picnics - but the outlook is not nearly as nice as it would be if the river had water.  

One of the interesting statues in the park along the banks of the Zayandeh River.

We also visited "The Shaking Mosque" built in 1337.  A man climbed up and shook the right-side Minaret, and the whole Mosque started to shake.  Impressive engineering.

There was a viewing platform on the top floor (6th floor) of our hotel with views over Isfahan.  This view was looking towards the main Square where one of the Mosques was being renovated. 

Another aspect of Isfahan from the top of our hotel.  The tallest buildings seem to be 6 floors - perhaps the Mosque or Palace sets a height limit?  We could see two cranes in the distance, presumably on a construction site.  So there was some construction taking place, but driving around we also noticed several half-finished buildings which had been abandoned (like in Tehran).

We had a look at the most up-market hotel in Isfahan, the Abbasi Hotel, not for from where we were staying.  Lots of atmosphere - apparently the main building started as a caravanserai -  and a beautiful garden courtyard with many locals enjoying snacks and drinks in this delightful place.

We had dinner in the main dining room of the Abbasi Hotel.

My main meal in the Abbasi Hotel restaurant - fairly standard fare of chicken kebab, rice and vegetables. But because it was a five star establishment the meal came with 16% tax plus 9% service charge. 

On our final morning in Isfahan Patrick, Richard and I got up at "sparrow's fart" to participate in early-morning exercises with this group of locals.  They made us feel very welcome (Iranians are most hospitable); we jogged around the Square a couple of times and then did a stretching routine.  A nice way to start the day.

I want to end this post with some images of women in Isfahan.  Islam demands modest dress by women in public, and we often saw ladies wearing black robes (including head cover) such as in the photo above.  Women in burqua (with only eyes visible, and sometimes even eyes are covered) were rare.  But many women are more modern, and wear quite fashionable clothes, albeit with head scarfs (usually worn well back), as shown below.

Women dressed like this lady were a common sight on the streets of cities such as Tehran and Isfahan.

Another young woman wearing Western-style clothing; she has a head scarf on, but shows lots of hair - she is definitely pushing the boundaries.

This group of friends was in the courtyard garden of the Abbasi Hotel.  Only one of the five wore the long black cloak, including covering all her hair; her four friends wore quite fashionable long, loose-fitting coats with head scarfs worn well back.

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I made the following brief notes in my diary:

Relatively few Iranians smoke.
We are blessed with great weather: cool nights, comfortable days (bright blue skies).
We brought rain - it was drizzling when we left Tehran, then again in Kashan, and also in Isfahan (no wonder the locals love us!).
Local restaurants are inexpensive; people eat late; restaurants often have folk music.
Lots of cars - pedestrians have no rights!
Local people are friendly; happy to chat with foreigners.
Good personal safety - haven't seen any violence yet - feel quite safe walking around, even at night.
Farming seems to be small-scale; haven't seen many market gardens or green-houses - where do the fruits & vegetables come from?
Lots of fir trees (why not eucalyptus?).
Toilets are mainly squat type; few urinals.


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So ended our enjoyable stay in Isfahan.  On Thursday morning, 12 April we drove from Isfahan to Yazd, via Maybod.  That will be the subject of my next post.

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Alex Olah and Vera Olah
Canberra, Australia
Sunday 20 May 2018

Post #170 15 May 2018

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our visit to Kashan, a city south of Tehran (about half way between Tehran and Isfahan).

We arrived in Kashan in the afternoon of Sunday 8 April, and left the following morning for Isfahan.

The drive took 3.5 hours; good highway; dry, desolate countryside, how can anything live/grow here?

We checked into the hotel and then had a late lunch.  Afterwards visited Fin Garden; then inspected two grand traditional private houses: Tabatabaee House and Brujerdi House.  Dinner in lovely Abbasia Restaurant.

We stayed in the Amir Kabir Hotel in Kashan.

Jenny, Hartmut and Vera with our bus driver Hamid and his trusty assistant Wahid; they transported us from Tehran to Shiraz. Fortunately Hamid was an excellent driver, while Wahid was always smiling and joking; they slept in a special compartment under the bus. 

The entrance to Fin Garden, a Persian garden created in the reign of  the first King Abbas of the Safavid Dynasty (1571-1629).   It gained notoriety in 1852 when the beloved Qajar Chancellor, Amir Kabir, was murdered here. Legend has it that the King changed his mind at the last minute, but his courier arrived too late as the assassin had already struck.

Fin Garden was listed as a UNESCO World Historical Site in 2012. It covers 2.3 hectares; the main yard is surrounded by a high wall with four towers. The Lonely Planet says that Persian gardens are meant to symbolise paradise, with flowing water, trees and flowers.  Traditional gardens apparently feature the Zoroastrian elements of sky, earth, water, and plants.

Girls at ease after the exertion of touring the Fin Garden; from left: Millie, Bethany, Amelia, Rawee, Vera.

Vera and me under one of the ancient Cypress trees in Fin Garden.

Amazing private residence Tabatabaei House in Kashan covers 5,000 sq meters; 40 rooms; 4 courtyards; 4 basements; 3 wind towers; wall paintings and stained glass.  Now a museum.  That's a mansion! 

We then visited another mansion, Brujerdi House. The story goes that a wealthy merchant, Seyyad Brujerdi, wanted to marry one of the Tabatabaei daughters and promised to build her a house to rival her father's. He employed the same architect, Ustad Ali Maryan.  Slightly smaller than Tabatabaei House, Brujerdi House has an impressive reception hall (see next photo).

The Reception Hall in Brujerdi House, with its ornate domed ceiling.

A poster on a wall near Brujerdi House suggesting that the anti-hijab movement (which has been gaining ground, especially in Tehran) is sponsored by the US, UK and Israel.  One gets the feeling that the Regime is trying hard to preserve Islamic teachings, but the mass of people, especially the young, are tuning out.

Another poster urging women to remain modest and pure.

Outside Brujerdi House this guy was selling coffee & tea from the back of a VW van - good to see a bit of initiative at work (and the coffee was pretty good too!).

That night we had dinner in the Abbasi Restaurant advertised in this poster. Although Iranians adopted Arabic script, they kept their own spoken language (Farsi).

The attractive interior of the Abbasi Restaurant.

We found it more comfortable to eat while seated on chairs, rather than sitting on a platform (on carpets & cushions) as is the more traditional way in Iran.  From left: Vera; Ruth; Hartmut; Amelia; Millie; Phillip; Jenny; Alex (me); Bethany; and Patrick.

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So ended our first day on the road.  Tehran was a good introduction, but we were all eager to see more of this fascinating country.

The following day we drove to Isfahan, which will be the subject of my next post.

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Alex Olah & Vera Olah
Canberra, Australia
Tuesday, 15 May 2018