Post #214 31 March 2020

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our stay in Madurai, Tamil Nadu State, for two nights 9 and 10 March 2020.

Much better highway between Trichy and Madurai. The landscape became drier and more hilly as we approached Madurai. The "weed-thorn-bush" we often saw in Rajasthan was here as well.

Our guide said that Chennai is the political and commercial capital of Tamil Nadu, but Madurai is the spiritual capital.

In Madurai we stayed at JC Residences, a older-style hotel, but comfortable. On our first night Eugine took us to a local movie theatre where we watched a Tamil film (there is a large local film industry, second only to Bollywood).

We drove from Tiruchirappalli (Trichy) to Madurai, and then on to Kerala State.

Here diesel (Rs 68 - about A$1.50 per liter) is cheaper than petrol which ranges from Rs75 - Rs78 per liter.  It used to be the same in Australia, but in the last 10 years diesel has become more expensive than Unleaded 91 petrol.

We stopped at this roadside restaurant for lunch. Delicious. Cost A$7 for two of us.

Inside the restaurant. It was almost empty when we arrived at 12.30, but then filled up. Indians tend to eat lunch at 1pm.

Eugine said that this car was made by Tata and sold for only US$3,500. But production has ceased because it couldn't compete with lower-end Suzuki vehicles which were more popular.

Our wonderful guide, Eugine Gevarghese, explaining the day's program to us.

The following morning, 10 March, we visited a huge wholesale flower market. Flowers are an important part of Indian/Hindu culture.

We visited the enormous Sri Meenakshi Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva and particularly his wife the triple-breasted, fish-eyed goddess Meenakshi. Nayak kings began construction in 1560. The temple complex covers 6 hectares, and features 12 gopurams (welcome gates) the highest of which is 52m; all the gates are carved with an amazing array of gods, goddesses, demons and heros.

My photos didn't do this temple justice; I found this photo on the internet - it gives a much better perspective of this huge, intricate, complex.  We've seen so many incredible Hindu temples, each better/different than the next; the mind has difficulty taking it all in.

The Hall of 1000 Pillars; each pillar is a carved sculpture. Astounding workmanship!

After the temple we were taken to a local shop. The carpets were exquisite - and seemed relatively inexpensive - we learnt that ours was probably the last tourist group expected here (the growing coronavirus threat!), so they were desperate to make sales, but alas we were all shopped out.

We visited the Tirumalai Nayak Palace: construction started in 1636 by King Tirumalai of the Nayak Dynasty who ruled the Madurai Kingdom from 1636 to 1659. The Palace was a fusion of Dravidian and Rajput architecture. The building we visited was where the King lived - the original palace complex was four times as large; it's still impressive now, but must have been truly awe-inspiring when built.

The rectangular courtyard covers an area of 3,700 sq.m. Light shows are held there for tourists in the evenings (unfortunately we didn't get to see one). The Courtyard is ringed by enormous pillars, 12 m high.

Some of the beautiful ceilings have been restored.

The Celestial Pavilion was used as the Throne Room; the domed roof was 20m high, an architectural master-piece.

One of the arcades around the Courtyard.

Madurai has (yet another) Gandhi Museum. The maze of rooms in this attractive old building gave a detailed account of India's struggle for independence from 1757 to 1947.

So simple and humble, yet strong and inspiring.

The Museum contains the blood-stained dhoti (loincloth) which Gandhi was wearing when he was assassinated in 1948; it was during a visit to Madurai in 1921 that he started wearing the dhoti as a sign of native pride.

An inscription from Albert Einstein "Generations to come will scarcely believe that such a man walked upon this earth."

That evening Eugine arranged for us to travel by rickshaw from our hotel across Madurai to a restaurant where we had dinner.  For about half the distance we were on the main street - crazy traffic, constant movement and noise, then moved onto side streets. It was a fun experience; made us realise what a tough job the men who peddle these rickshaws have.

Jill and Elaine in their rickshaw.

Darryl and Peter had their own rickshaws.

The following are random photos taken around Madurai.

There are lots of pharmacies everywhere in India.

A local gym.

An autorickshaw. 

A shop which makes photocopies (Xerox - haven't seen that name for years).

A motorbike showroom & dealer (local brand TVS).

Boy waiting for his father to return.

Always lots of traffic, especially motor bikes and autorickshaws.

A small, neighbourhood, Hindu Temple.

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And so ended our visit to Madurai, our last stop in Tamil Nadu State.  The following morning we drove to Kerala State, the subject of my next post.

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Coronavirus Update

Date 2020	Global		Australia
	Infections	Deaths	Infections	Deaths
23 March	335,972	14,642	1,353	7
25 March	423,543	18,876	2,317	8
27 March	525,614	23,706	2,810	13
29 March	649,904	30,249	3,640	14
31 March	775,306	37,083	4,361	18

Source: Thenewdaily.com.au

USA

28 March:  101,242 infections, 1,588 deaths; 31 March: 153.000 infections, 2,828 deaths

The number of deaths in Italy passed 10,000, with Spain not far behind.

Four days ago President Trump speculated that the CV19 emergency would be over by Easter Sunday (12 April); but with US deaths nearing 3,000 he is now saying it will take a couple of months, rather than a couple of weeks.

On 30 March the Australian Govt announced a wage-support package ("Jobkeeper") worth $130 billion (yes, billion!!!) to encourage companies to retain staff. That was on top of their first package of $17,6 billion (announced 12 March) and the second package (Jobseeker) of $66 billion (announced on 22 March).

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Vera & Alex Olah
Canberra, Australia
Tuesday 31 March 2020

Post #213 30 March 2020

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our drive from Pondy to Trichy, and our time in Trichy where we stayed for one night Sunday 8 March 2020.

The landscape near the coast reminded Vera & me of parts of Indonesia, especially Java: coconut palms, rice paddies, dense population.  But as we left the coast, the landscape grew steadily drier and the villages we passed looked poorer.

The condition of the highway today was the worst we experienced during our time in India; rough surfaces; but a new highway is being built - can't come early enough.

We stopped at Kumbakonam to see the town market, always interesting.

Market scene.

Another photo of the market.

The inevitable cow wondering through the market.  But generally there seemed to be fewer cows here than in northern India.

We passed the Shiva Temple at Gangakondacholapuram (what a long name!) but only looked at it from the perimeter. Built in the 10th century, the tower is 49m high.

A close-up of some of the restoration work taking place.

Our next stop was the immense Brihadishwara Temple in Tanjore, the ancient capital of the Chola Empire. Construction started in 1010AD. The Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. 

 The central courtyard of the Temple. There is a covered statue of Nandi, Shiva's sacred bull and transporter, 6m long and 3m high and weighing 25 tonnes. Unlike most South Indian temples where the welcoming gateway gopuram towers are the highest, here the 66m (13 storeys!) Central Tower (vimana) dominates. How on earth did they build such structures 1,000 years ago?  Our guide told us that the approach ramps were 6km long, and elephants would slowly drag materials up as the tower grew in height.

Visitors relaxing, often sleeping, in the shady arcades around the Temple. It was Sunday, and lots of visitors. 

Some of the buses bringing people to the temple were colourfully decorated.

Another colourful bus.

From the Temple we visited house/shop and watched how bronze statues were made using age-old, traditional techniques. 

The villages in this area seemed poorer than elsewhere.

Poor villages seen from the bus on the drive to Trichy.

In Trichy we stayed in the Sangam Hotel.

View of the main entrance of Sangam Hotel, Trichy.

A view of Rock Fort Temple, perched on top of an 83m rock outcrop overlooking Trichy City.

The next morning, Monday 9 March 2020 we visited two temples. The first was Rock Fort Temple, perched on top of an 83m high outcrop of rock. This is the main entrance. Actually there are two temples here, one half-way and the other on the top. Both are dedicated to Ganesh.

Half way up, from left: Bryan, Debra, Peter (partly obscured), and me. Bryan and I had to buy sarongs as we were wearing shorts.

The top was in sight.  There wer 437 steps from the bottom. It was a long climb but worth the effort.

Elaine on the way up.

Great views of Trichy city from the top.

Priests guarding the inner sanctum - only Hindus could enter.

Coming back down - Debra near the bottom.

Every morning Hindus draw (using rice flour) holy symbols in front of their homes, as offerings to the gods.  In Bali the offerings comprise small flowers, but here they are drawn pictures of flour.

Devotees bathing in holy river nearby.

After the Rock Fort Temple, we visited the Sri Ranganathaswarmy Temple in the northern part of Trichy. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, this is one of the largest Hindu temples in India. You first pass through seven welcoming gateways (gopuram - the highest is 73m!) to arrive at the inner sanctum. What a busy place. There were crowds of people, shops, motorbikes, the noise was deafening. But great fun, seeing all this humanity.

Once you entered the central area, it was much calmer. This sort of viewing platform gave one a bird's eye view of the huge temple complex.

The symbol of Vishnu was everywhere; priests and devotees had it painted on their foreheads. I think this was the temple where Peter got into a minor altercation with a local priest (he seemed annoyed at non-Hindu visitors), who screamed at him "you know I can have you arrested for blasphemy!".  We pulled Peter away, and luckily nothing came of the incident.

Some of the beautiful carvings.

The carvings were life-size.

Hanuman, the Monkey God.  Haven't seen much of him so far.

Sacred symbols drawn with rice flour.

Visitors taking their ease in the arcades.

Not a statue.  Isn't she a cutie?

We then drove from Trichy to Madurai; on the way out of Trichy we passed this impressive church. Made me think of the enormous sacrifices people have made in the name of religion over the centuries.

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And so ended our visit to Trichy, short but memorable.

Our next stop will be Madurai, the subject of my next post.

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Vera & Alex Olah
Canberra, Australia
Monday, 30 March 2020