Sunday 12 April 2015

12 April 2015

Gentlefolk,

Visit to Qufu, 4 to 6 April 2015


We decided to visit Qufu, the home town of Confucius during the Tomb Sweeping Day long-weekend.  A student friend, Liu Fang Qiang (Oliver) accompanied us.

Qufu is about 300 km inland from Qingdao, and spring was more in evidence here - blossoms in full bloom and green tinges on the trees.





Our bus went from Huangdao down the coast to Rizhao, and then almost due West to Qufu.  Excellent highways. The trip took 4.5 hours.

The old part of Qufu is about one square kilometre and is encircled by a wall.  It is obviously a tourist town, with lots of trishaws (battery-powered these days!) and horse drawn carriages.  Many of the facades of buildings have been done in ancient style.  It all makes for quite an attractive town.

This shows the outline of the wall enclosing Qufu Old City. the green patches inside the wall are the Confucius Temple and mansion.  The Confucius Forest / Cemetery is about 1 km north of the Old City.  
 

Confucius


Confucius (Kong Zi in Chinese, 551 – 479 BC) was an official of the Qi Kingdom. At the age of 63, instead of graceful retirement he turned to teaching.  He believed that everyone, not just the nobility, had the right to knowledge and is revered in China for being the first teacher to take on a large number of students from various walks of life. 

Confucius believed that social harmony would be achieved if each individual in 5 basic relationships carried out their proper roles: father/son; ruler/subject; husband/wife; elder brother/younger brother; friend/friend (eg a subject served his ruler respectfully, while a ruler provided for his subject).

His students/disciples compiled 497 of his teachings into a book called The Analects.  Examples of his teachings are:

Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in getting up every time we do.
Forget injuries, never forget kindnesses.
Be not ashamed of mistakes and thus make them crimes.
Before you embark on a journey of revenge, dig two graves.
Everything has its beauty but not everyone sees it.
Ignorance is the night of the mind, but a night without moon and star.
It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop.
Respect yourself and others will respect you.
Study the past if you would define the future.

His most famous teaching was ‘Treat others as you want them to treat you’.  He was the first known exponent, 2,500 years ago, of what became known in the West as the 'Golden Rule'.

The fame of his teachings spread.  Two hundred years after his death the Han Emperor made Confucianism the state ideology, and it has underpinned Chinese society ever since.  He finally achieved the recognition that had eluded him during his lifetime!  The status of the Kong family, his descendants, was elevated and they became very well off.

He is often referred to in the West as ‘the sage Confucius’. 

Why is this descriptor used specifically for Confucius? Why isn't it also commonly used to describe other ‘wise men’ who had their own blueprints for better societies such as Jesus, or Gautama, or Muhammad, or Marx?

There are three main Confucius sites in Qufu: the Confucius Temple (where he taught), the Confucius Mansions (where he lived), and the Confucius Forest (where he is buried).  

The Temple of Confucius (Chinese孔庙; pinyinKǒng Miàoand the Mansions are big -  they occupy about 20% of the Old City - while the Forest/Cemetery is a is huge (about 200 hectares) and has over 40,000 graves, all Kongs.

A ticket to visit all three sites is Y150 ($24) – a 20% discount over individual tickets.   Students and seniors get a 50% discount.



Vera & me outside the main gate of the massive Confucius Temple.

The center-piece of the Confucius Temple is Dacheng Hall (54mx34mx32m).



A closer look at the front of Dacheng Hall.  Intricately carved stone pillars.


The Confucius Temple was crowded when we were there.  Here is a girl making an offering to The Master, and no doubt wishing for good grades.


The Apricot Pavilion, where Confucius is said to have taught.


There are many stone stele (plural: stelae) stone tablets mounted on bixi, a tortoise-like mythical animal, many with cute faces. The biggest one weighs 6 tonnes!

Crowds around Confucius' grave in the Kong Forest / Cemetery.


Kong Xiang Hu ('Auspicious tiger' Kong), 76th generation of Confucius ancestors, writing a poem for us at the Confucius Temple.  It now hangs in pride-of-place in our living room.


We travelled around the Old City by trishaw - they are battery-powered these days, the pedals are for emergencies only.
Another common way to get around Qufu is by horse-drawn carriage.




Our student friend Oliver stayed at the Youth Hostel, where we stayed 5 years ago (but this time all the private rooms were booked, so we stayed in a hotel nearby).  Last time we befriended the manager, Lu Hui, but he was away.  This time we met his lovely wife Han Fang.



Our hotel had a big display in the foyer with a statue of Confucius and some of his quotes as a back-drop.


Oliver looking at the moat which protects the wall surrounding the Old City.


One of the main gates of the wall around the Old City.  Five years ago we were told of plans to let visitors walk along the top of the wall, but unfortunately that hasn't happened yet.

Vera and Oliver buying a wrap for lunch.  Delicious.



Well folks, I'd better finish this post while the going is good.  Our internet has been very unstable for the last week - driving me crazy -  I planned to do this post much earlier, but just couldn't get into my blog.

We had a problem on the return journey.  We expected to be let off at the Huangdao Long Distance Bus Station near our campus, but instead the bus dropped us off on the outskirts of Huangdao, about 30 km from the city. Its final destination was Qingdao City, another 70 km away, and it was just skirting the district of Huangdao but they didn't explain that when we bought the tickets in Qufu! 

We had to walk 1.5 km and finally found a local bus which took us into Huangdao City, and then another bus to the campus.  Luckily Oliver was with us, and could explain what was going on! 

Anyway, all's well that ends well; we made it back in one piece.  The weekend in Qufu was a good break from our normal routine on campus.

Best wishes, and keep smiling.

Alex & Vera Olah
English Teachers at the China University of Petroleum, Qingdao
www.upc.edu.cn
Sunday, 12 April 2015

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