Post #102 30 May 2016

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our visit to Shenyang, capital of Liaoning Province last weekend.

Shenyang is about 1,000km due north of Qingdao.  The flights took about 1.5 hours.  We flew up on Friday evening, and returned Sunday evening.  Remarkably, both flights left right on schedule (Xiamen Air - well done!!!).

The main purpose of the visit was to say goodbye to Li Ying. We met Ying and her friend Olivia when we first arrived in China in August 2009. They were very helpful to us in our first few months in Dongying - we called them "our guardian angels".

Olivia worked in UPC's International Office, while Ying was a student, majoring in marketing; she did both Bachelors and Masters here (first Dongying campus, then Qingdao campus).

When she completed her Masters (3 years ago) Ying found a job with Budweiser beer in Shenyang, her home town. She did well, and quickly became a team leader.  But, like many young Chinese, she dreamt of running her own company.

Last year Ying and two partners founded Chess Ivy, a school to teach kids to play chess. They rented nice premises (see photo below) but progress has been painfully slow - let's hope it picks up soon.

Actually, I visited Shenyang back in 1984-6 when I worked at the Australian Embassy in Beijing.  It was then known for its heavy industry, pollution and shabby Soviet-inspired architecture.  I had heard that it had changed, and was curious to see it again.

Saturday 28 May 2016

 Ying met us at our hotel, and we walked to the Go Gung Palace.

Lunch at the Lao Bian Restaurant - it's been serving dumplings for more than 150 years!

In the afternoon we visited Zhong Shan Square to look at the huge Mao statue, the old Liaoning Hotel, and surrounding buildings.

Ying's parents, Li Zhi Ming and Wang Xiao Ping, invited us for dinner in their apartment.

Sunday 29 May 2016

Visit to the Tomb of Huang Tie Ji, second emperor of the Qing Dynasty.

Lunch in hot pot restaurant.

7pm Return flight to Qingdao

Here are some photos of our visit to Shenyang.

Shenyang is the capital of Liaoning Province, which in turn is part of "Dong Bei" or the North East Region comprising Liaoning, Jilin and Heilongjiang Provinces.

Shenyang is about 1,000 km due north of Qingdao. It has very cold winters and hot summers.

Shenyang is the capital of Liaoning Province, and the largest city in the North-East Region. It is the transport hub of the province.

Liaoning has long been a battlefield.  The British founded Port Arthur; Russia controlled the Liaodong Peninsula for about 5 years, then the Japanese took over when they won the Russo-Japanese War.  Finally Liaoning was part of the Republic of China , only for the Japanese to return and establish a satellite state  in Manchuria (1931-45). The Communists finally won the Civil War, but that was followed closely by the Korean War .  The long-suffering people of Liaoning!!!

Today Shenyang is a modern, bustling city of about 10 million people.  It is located on the banks of the Hun River. 

Another view of Shenyang City. When I visited the city 30 years ago the highest building was 6 storeys!

We stayed at one end of Zhong Jie, a long pedestrian street lined by modern shopping malls.

On Saturday morning we visited Gu Gong, the Imperial City built between 1625 and 1636 by Nurhachi (1559-1626), the founder of the Qing Dynasty and his son, Huang Tai Ji (1592-1643).   The Qing defeated the Ming, and in 1644 moved their capital from Shenyang to Beijing "inside the Great Wall" and ruled China from there.  The Qing Dynasty finally collapsed in 1912 when the last emperor, Pu Yi, abdicated and the Republic of China was established. 

The Emperor's "office" was located in this ornate pavilion.

We were lucky to catch a little enactment during our visit: the Emperor receiving visiting dignitaries. 

Some girls in period costumes put on a welcome dance during the "show". How could they move so gracefully on those awkward-looking wooden clogs and wearing those elaborate head-dresses?

The Emperor, accompanied by wives #1 and #2, receiving guests.

We had lunch at the Lao Bian Dumpling restaurant, which can trace its origins back to 1829. Still going strong.

On Saturday afternoon we visited the huge Mao statue in Zhong Shan Square. It was built in 1969, at the height of the Cultural Revolution - many of the figures are wearing Mao badges on their jackets and waving the Little Red Book.

Adoring hordes surround the Great Leader, waving copies of Mao's sayings.

Everyone was eager to build New China.

The venerable old Liaoning Hotel is on one side of Zhong Shan Square. It was built in 1929. Now the city has a dozen  or more five-star hotels.  I stayed here 30 years ago when it was still the best hotel in town! 

Li Ying and Vera accompanying some street art. There were some interesting old buildings in this part of the city.

Ying's parents invited us home for dinner.  Very nice to meet them - wonderful hosts.

Ying has started a school to teach children how to play chess.  Attractive premises, but up-take has been slow.

On Sunday we visited the Tomb of Emperor Huang Tai Ji (1592-1643) which is located in Bei Ling Park.  He was the second Qing Emperor and leader of the Manchu people, basically of Mongolian origin.  Fierce warriors, they defeated the Ming Emperor in 1644 and ruled China for more than two-and-a-half centuries.

Visitors paid to dress in traditional costumes.

One of the many impressive gates and buildings in the Tomb.

The Tomb covered a large area, with the actual body believed to be buried under this mound. They claim to be waiting for improved technology before excavating the burial site some time in the future.

They created lakes near the Tomb - good fortune - now a popular spot for families and boating.

On Sunday afternoon we had a leisurely lunch at a hot pot restaurant. From left: Xu Liang (Ying's cousin, he studied physics in Toronto); his wife Jiang Yi Xiao (doing a PhD in Organic Chemistry); and Li Ying.

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We enjoyed our short visit to Shenyang. It was great to see Ying before our departure  - who knows if we'll ever get up this way again - and to meet her parents and her cousin and his wife.

We couldn't believe our luck on two counts: firstly the flights were both on time, and secondly the weather was perfect: high 20s with clear, sunny skies.

Lastly, the city has changed beyond recognition from 30 years ago.  The factories and smoke-stacks have been moved to the outskirts and the city is a cluster of gleaming, modern structures. Truly amazing.

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Next weekend we will visit Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang Province.  We always wanted to see famous West Lake, and time is running out so here goes.

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The NBA semi-finals have seen great contests.  The Toronto Raptors put up a great fight but finally lost to Cleveland Cavaliers.  They will play either the Golden State Warriors or Oklahoma City Thunder in the final.

Best wishes, keep well and keep smiling.

Alex & Vera Olah
English teachers at the China University of Petroleum, Qingdao
www.upc.euu.cn
Monday 30 May 2016