Post #172 25 May 2018

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our visit to Yazd, a city in Central Iran, 12 - 14 April 2018.

Yazd - sounds exotic - what is the origin of that name?  The name seems very different to the other cities we visited such as Kashan and Isfahan and Shiraz.  Is it Arabic? and if so, why aren't more of the names in Central Iran similar?

Yazd, located between two great deserts, is a real 'desert city' - everything was shades of brown: the straw-mud-brick houses; walls; alleys.

The bus went from Isfahan to Yazd via the town of Meybod (about 50 km from Yazd) where we stopped to look at two traditional structures: the Pigeon Tower and the Ice House.  We had lunch in the old caravanserai/market and then drove on to Yazd.

Meybod

The Pigeon Tower of Meybod; believed to be about 200 years old, but renovated in recent years.  Pigeon poo (guano) was a valuable fertiliser for agriculture in the old days, before the advent of chemical-based fertilisers took over. The Persians built Pigeon Towers which could house thousands of birds, and collected their droppings - this Tower could house 4,000 birds. Pigeon Towers had smooth walls to prevent snakes, and also stone floors to deter rats, from entering. 

Inside the Pigeon Tower. From left: Amelia, Millie, Richard, David and Ruth listening to Zahra's explanation of this strange structure.

I found this image on the internet of pigeons inside a Pigeon Tower (we didn't see any pigeons inside the Meybod Pigeon Tower while we were there).

Another photo I found on the internet, showing the condition of the Meybod Pigeon Tower in its original state before it was renovated.

We had lunch in the old Meybod caravanserai; the "old foggies" chose to sit at normal tables, but the "young-uns" squatted in traditional style on the raised platform behind us.

One of the market stalls in the Meybod caravanserei selling local handicrafts.

The Meybod Ice House or Yakhchāl (Persian: یخچال‎ "ice pit"; yakh meaning "ice" and chāl meaning "pit") was an ancient method of making and storing ice. The structure had a domed shape above ground, with a subterranean storage pit inside. The thick heat-resistant mud-brick material insulated the interior year round. The Meybod Ice House is believed to be more than 400 years old. 

Inside the Meybod Ice House.  It was an engineering marvel, with thick walls at the base, tapering to thin at the apex of the dome.

Looking up at the small hole at the top of the dome.  Warm air would rise and escape through the hole at the top, which could then be closed to trap in cooler air.

A view of the ice pit, below ground level.   There were two icing ponds outside, where water would freeze during cold nights.  The ice was then transferred to this huge pit where it would be stored and used during the hot summer months.

Yazd

From Meybod we drove the 50 kms to Yazd, and checked into the Rah & Ma Hotel (means 'Pathway to the Moon' in Farsi). We finally got big plates and forks and spoons for breakfast (but still small knives - weird).

We visited the very interesting Yazd Water Museum which is housed in an old mansion (with a working qanat underneath). The semi-arid landscape raised many questions relating to water, but Zahra always said "be patient, I will discuss in detail in Yazd", so here we were and all would be revealed.

Zahra explaining the importance of water in Iran, and the ancient system of qanats (sometimes spelt 'canat').  These were underground aqueducts or tunnels - the longest qanat measured 150 km - incredible!  First they had to locate an aquifer (usually at the base of a nearby mountain which caught clouds / rain); then work out the optimal incline and route of the qanat; and finally dig the tunnel. But water was essential for irrigation and household use, so getting it right was a matter of survival. An amazing feat of human ingenuity and endeavor.

Some of the exhibits in the Yazd Water Museum.  There were many local visitors and the Museum was crowded (it was Friday, a holiday in Iran, so many people around), but it was really fascinating.

The beautiful Jameh Mosque (Masjed-e Jameh) which dominates the Old City part of Yazd. The entrance portal is one of the highest in Iran, topped by two impressive minarets.

Vera and me in the square in front of the Jameh Mosque.

People worshiping inside the main hall of the Jameh Mosque (Zahra said it is also known as the Community Mosque because of its friendly atmosphere); there were men and women sitting around the walls reading newspapers and chatting - it all seemed pretty relaxed - tourists taking photos, no one seemed to mind.

Zahra took this opportunity to tell the group about Islam; she sat cross-legged while we sat or stood in a semi-circle around her; in a small area adjacent to the main prayer hall. Basic tenents: One God and Mohammad is His prophet; pray 5 times a day and do the pilgrimage to Mecca; give to the poor; fast during Ramadan; await Judgement Day.  We must have been there about 30 or 40 minutes while she patiently answered our questions. She made it all sound plausible, but I doubt that reality is as benign; in the end, it all comes down to 'interpretation' of the Koran (just like different interpretations of the Bible!) and faith.  

After the Jameh Mosque we went to this cafe for drinks, up on the roof-top balcony.

We had a drink on the roof-top balcony of a nearby cafe (the fresh pomegranate juice was delicious!).  

View of surrounding roof-tops of the Old City - no tall buildings, and everything was shades of brown.

A typical alleyway in the Old City of Yazd.  The alleys were too narrow for cars, so people used motor bikes - but they made a helluva noise with their exhausts echoing off the walls.

In the afternoon we visited Bagh-e Dolat Abad, the former residence of Karim Khan Zand who in 1750  built a marvellous house/pavilion and a lovely garden. The pavilion includes a 34 meter high wind tower ('badgir' in Farsi), the tallest in Iran.

The lovely stained glass windows in the house / pavilion. 

The interior of the Pavilion featured intricate latticework and ceiling.

The extensive Persian-style garden.

That night we had dinner at a popular local restaurant called La Visan.  The menu was more varied than other restaurants we have patronised and we all enjoyed different dishes (I had trout, while Vera had a very tasty lamb's shank - shown on the menu as 'muscle of lamb' - nice change from the usual chicken kebab).  By 9pm the restaurant was pretty full and a two-man band started playing Iranian pop songs.  We were surprised how quickly the crowd responded and the atmosphere became quite animated - especially the women - good to see Iranians enjoying themselves.

We visited the Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Yazd.  The religion know as Zoroastrianism was founded by Zoroaster (some say in the tenth century BC), and by the time of the Achaemenid Empire under Darius 1st it had become the State religion of Iran, and would remain the dominant religion until the Arab conquest of about 650AD when Islam took over.  

The Fravahar is one of the primary symbols of Zoroastrianism, and is believed to be the depiction of a Fravashi or Guardian Spirit. The principal beliefs are: One God; heaven & hell; free will; good thoughts / good words / good deeds.  There are very few believers left in Iran (although the Fire Temple was very busy with lots of visitors when we ere there); the Parsees in India are perhaps the largest group of followers.

On the outskirts of Yazd is the Temple of Silence, where Zoroastrians were taken when they died.  The naked bodies were placed on the platform at the top of the Hill, to be "cleansed" by vultures. The bones were then deposited in a hole in the center of the platform.

Climbing up the Tower of Silence.

The view of Yazd from the mid-station to the top of the Tower of Silence.  The corpses were prepared in the buildings at the base of the hill; some modern apartment buildings in the distance.

Women of Yazd

Better to include a photo of a man, lest I be accused of favoring the fairer sex.

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And so ended a very interesting couple of days in Yazd, "desert town".

Our next stop on the tour was Kerman, the subject of the subsequent post.

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Alex Olah & Vera Olah
Canberra, Australia
Friday, 25 May 2018