Post #193 20 July 2019

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our trip to the Cook Islands, 28 May - 12 June 2019.

We had originally planned to go in January for my brother's 70th birthday, but when Vera started chemotherapy we postponed the trip. Her treatment finished at the end of January; she has made good progress/recovery so we decided to go now.

My brother, Andrew (Andy) Olah, has lived in Rarotonga for 39 years.  He stopped there while "hitching" across the Pacific, fell in love, quit his job in Canberra, sold everything, re-located and has never looked back.

He visited Australia often, especially when our parents were still alive.

Andy tried his hand at many different things. In 1999 he bought into Arorangi Timberland (a timber importer / distributor) which he subsequently built into a substantial business together with his son, Alexander.  Andy's latest achievement was to renovate a derelict house - with brilliant results (google Moana Oasis Villa Rarotonga).

Here are some photos of our adventure.

On Friday afternoon 28 June we took the bus from Canberra to Sydney Airport (3 hours) for the once-a-week direct Sydney - Rarotonga flight on NZ60. At check-in we were told that there was a problem with the aircraft, and our flight was delayed until 11.30 the following morning. They organised a nearby hotel and gave us a meal allowance for dinner and breakfast.  

The flight took off at midday on Saturday. The 6 hours to Raro passed quickly.  I watched two movies: 'The Mule' with Clint Eastwood (89 and still making movies, a legend!) and 'Peterloo' which describes the massacre of demonstrators in St Peter's Fields, Manchester in August 1819. 

The Cook Islands are between New Zealand and Tahiti, about 6 hours flying time from Sydney and 4 hours from Auckland. The Cook Islands comprise 15 islands with a total area of 240 sq km. The largest (circumference of 32 km) and most populous island is Rarotonga, which has a population of about 10,000 (out of a total of about 17,000).  The Cook Islands became self-governing in 1965, but have a "free association" with New Zealand which looks after its foreign affairs and defence.  Cook Islanders have automatic New Zealand citizenship (but not reciprocal). At the last NZ census about 60,000 people identified as Cook Islanders; there are also many in Australia.

The Cook Islands are just across the date line from Australia, so we gain a day going (the direct flight normally leaves Sydney at 9.30pm and arrives in Rarotonga at 7am the same day), and lose a day on the return (departed Rarotonga on Thursday afternoon and arrived Sydney Friday night).

Aitutaki (the beautiful island)

Off to Aitutaki, 50 min flight from Rarotonga by SAAB (good flight).

Aitutaki is said to have "the most beautiful lagoon in the world".

The island of Aitutaki has a population of about 2,000. Tourism is the main industry. We stayed at Aretai which is the fourth down on the left. 

The airport was built by the US military during WW2.

We stayed at the Aretai Beach Villas. There are 3 comfortable bungalows right on the beach.  Two bedrooms, bathroom, combined kitchen - dining - living area, fully equipped.

A view of our bungalow from the beach. An idyllic setting. It was windy and wet (and quite cool) during our stay -  not good beach weather.

The view from our front verandah. Unfortunately the weather wasn't great for kayaking or snorkeling. The lagoon is too shallow to swim comfortably, except at high tide.

Our 'host' at Aretai Villas, Lawton, was very helpful. There are small supermarkets in Arutanga, the town, where we bought essentials. There used to be a cafe next door but now the nearest restaurant is at the Tamanu Resort, about a kilometer away (more cafes in the town).

On Sunday we hired bicycles and rode into Arutanga, about 3 - 4 km, to attend church and have lunch at a local cafe. There is little traffic and the terrain is flat, so good for cycling.  There are no dogs on Aitutaki - banned by the local government some years ago. I climbed the highest point on Aitutaki (124 meters above sea level), not far from our bungalow.

Most people seem to belong to the Cook Islands Christian Church (CICC). The first missionaries came from Britain in 1821 and quickly converted the locals to Christianity. Most locals seem quite devout and many shops and cafes were closed on Sunday.

Inside the CICC church. We couldn't understand the sermon which was in Maori, but the Minister spoke with passion. Local ladies dress up for church, and wear lovely straw hats.

We went across the street to mass in the Catholic Church.

A typical bungalow where the locals live.  Foreigners can't buy land in the Cook Islands - ownership stays with locals, very sensible - foreigners can only lease (leases can be up to 60 years).

There seemed to be quite a few abandoned houses. This property had a vegetable patch, but we saw little agriculture. Many free-range chickens, some goats and the occasional cow and pig.

We went to the "Family BBQ" night at the Tamanu Resort on Sunday night, hosted by the manager Nick Henry.  

We did a Lagoon Cruise with Aitutaki Adventures and Captain Puna. Luckily, the sun came out and it was a nice day. Four couples (New Zealand, Hungarian, Czech, Korean) and us, plus Martin Chambers, a retired Kiwi who spends two months here every year.

Beautiful colors on the lagoon. We went snorkeling (but not many fish).

Lunch on One Foot Island; the photo shows the Post Office where we got a 'visa' stamped in our passports ($2 each).

Rarotonga (the main island)

After 3 days in Aitutaki it was back to Rarotonga. Andy has a long-term lease on a house at Vaimaanga and we stayed with him there. Rarotonga has a population of around 10,000.  The main commercial area is in Avarua, where the harbour is also situated.

A small container vessel unloading in the harbour.

Andy's house at Vaimaanga, where we stayed.

Our father, Akos Olah, enjoyed reading on this little platform in Andy's garden; it is now a memorial in his name. The inscription reads "Dr Akos Olah, gentleman and scholar".

Vera picking a ripe papaya in Andy's garden.  Everything grows well in this place.

A load of timber being unloaded at Timberland - it arrived on the container ship in the harbour.

Father and son at work; Andy and Alex discussing an order at Timberland. Two staff look on in the background. Alex often wears a beanie during the "winter months" (Andy usually at night).

We saw many shipping containers around the Island; most used for storage, some converted into living quarters, as in the photo above.

Andy is a keen member of the local cycling group, both road and mountain terrain.

Last year Andy bought "Pinky" in NZ (Subaru motor, VW body).  It was fun driving it around Rarotonga. 

Busy local market on the weekends. Many stalls selling food, clothing, artifacts, etc. Good fun.

Vera buying snacks at a stall at the Markets. Many local men and women put on weight in later years.

Traditional dance performance by local girls.

Humongous and delicious hamburger at one of the food stalls at the Markets, Kai & Co.

Alex belongs to the Voyaging Group, which sails a traditional Vaka (in the background). He had just run a training course on the Vaka, and the group was coming back to shore. A few years ago Alex participated in a huge voyage where the Vaka sailed to Tahiti, Hawaii, California, Mexico, Ecuador and back.

The Moana Oasis Villa. It took Andy 3 years to turn this ugly duckling into a beautiful swan. He renovated the ground floor, and added the second floor (bridal suite, living room and balcony). Now available as a holiday rental - affordable luxury!

The comfortable living room on the ground floor.

Open plan living / dining area flows into the kitchen. Behind Vera you can see the stairs leading up to the second floor.

The ensuite for the Bridal Suite upstairs.

One of the bedrooms, tastefully furnished.

On Sunday morning we attended Mass at the Catholic Cathedral, conveniently located right next to Taitapu's place.

Vera with Taitapu, Andy's ex partner and Alex's mother. 

Bishop Donoghue said the Mass.

The Catholic College's girls netball team won the championships and were given a special blessing at the Mass. Vera is holding Hinamoana, Alex's daughter.

The first CICC church, built in 1846.

Interior of the CICC church.

Grave and bust of Sir Albert Henry, first Prime Minister of the independent Cook Islands. Some years later he was found guilty of corruption and lost his knighthood.

A sign near the Sailing Club - Rarotonga is far from everywhere.

Andy at the Sailing Club - we spent an enjoyable couple of hours sailing his Sunburst boat.

The beach in front of the Sailing Club.

A wedding ceremony in the garden of The Rarotongan Resort. The beach near this Resort was good, and that's where I swam most days.  

We went to the Island Night at the Edgewater Resort - full house - delicious buffet featuring local dishes and a show..

Some of the gorgeous dancers performing at the Island Night.

The Parliament of the Cook Islands meets in this building. 24 MPs are elected in single-member constituencies (Raro has 10) on a first-past-the-post basis. Parliamentary terms are for up to 4 years.  There are two major parties. The most recent General Election was held on 14 June 2018 in which a total of 8.636 votes were cast; the Cook Islands Party won 10 seats (3,654 votes) and the Democratic Party won 11 seats (3,620 votes) plus 3 independents. The British Monarch is the Head-of-State and is represented by "The Queen's Representative" (currently Tom Marsters). A Council of Chiefs, the House of Ariki, is an advisory body.

We went around Rarotonga (32 km, 1 hour) by local bus.  There are only two routes: Clockwise and Anti-clockwise. A bus leaves every half-hour, cost $5 pp. There are some designated bus stops, but people can flag it down anywhere - very relaxed.

Part of the Catholic Cemetery. 

A head-stone.

Many private houses, as in this photo, have graves of deceased family members in their front yards. 

On our last night we invited Andy, Alex, Engara and their kids to this restaurant.

The balcony at Antipodes Restaurant - amazing sunset views and out to sea.

Doting Papa (Grandfather) Andy with Etu and Hinamoana.

From left: me, Alex (with baby Etu), Vera, Engara, Hinamoana, Andy.

On our way to the airport we said goodbye to Alex at Timberland.

Hinamoana (what a cutie!) and Engara farewelling us at Rarotonga Airport.  The return flight to Sydney took almost 7 hours; we arrived at 8pm Sydney time, got through the airport in record time (20 mins) and caught a taxi to our son's place in Surry Hills.

And so ended an enjoyable visit to the Cook Islands.

We can now better understand what drew Andy to this South Pacific island paradise, and kept him there - great climate, beautiful environment, lovely people - what's not to like?

Andy complains that there is too much development and traffic. I was surprised at the number of resorts, hotels, and villas which now virtually ring the island, many more compared to my last visit 20 years ago.

Tourism is the main industry. This year the Cooks expect about 180,000 visitors (mainly from NZ, followed by Australia and the UK).  There is actually a shortage of labour in the hospitality sector - we came across several workers from Fiji and the Philippines.

Can't wait till our next visit - Andy has promised us "Pinky" again!

Andy, and Alex, thanks a million for your generosity and  hospitality - you made our visit so interesting, enjoyable, and memorable!

...

At Andy's suggestion I read "Pap'as in Polynesia - Tom Neale and other Cook Island characters" by Ian Forbes (published 2003). Individuals included: Tom Neale (the hermit of Suwarrow); Julian Dashwood (Gentleman of Mauke); John Harrington (GI merchant of Aitutaki); Takuke William (Pearl pioneer of Manihiki); Capt Andy Thomson and Karlo Anderson (Manuae); Ron Powell (of ships and Island Craft); Finbar Kenny (Stamp-man); Ian Forbes (Govt Printer).

I enjoyed it immensely (reminded me a little of the interesting characters in Jakarta back in the early 1970s). What a rag-tag collection of characters, but all interesting and highly talented.

...

Captain James Cook surveyed several of the Cook Islands during visits in 1773 and 1777. He named them the Hervey Islands after the-then Lord of the Admiralty.

In 1823 Russian Admiral Adam von Krusenstern started referring to them as the Cook Islands - he was a great admirer of Captain Cook - and the new name stuck.

Andy said that some locals want to re-name the Islands with a more native/traditional name - but he doubts that they will ever be able to reach agreement.

...

Wanted to mention some important international events before closing.

Wimbledon: Simona Halep beat Serena Williams to win the Womens Singles (in just 55 minutes) and Novak Djokovic beat Roger Federer to win the Mens (in 4 hours 57 minutes!).

England beat New Zealand in an amazing game to win the Cricket World Cup. Both teams scored 241 runs, and then both scored 15 in the Super Over;  finally England was given the title as it had more boundaries (26 to 17).

NSW beat Queensland in the third game to win the Rugby League State of Origin. James Tedesco MVP.

...

Today is the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission (Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin, and Michael Collins) which resulted in first moon walk; Armstrong's unforgettable "The eagle has landed" followed by "That's one small step for man,  one giant leap for mankind".

To mark the occasion we watched the Apollo 11 movie tonight - impressive.

In total 12 astronauts walked on the moon's surface between 1969 and 1972 when the moon landings ceased.

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My next post will be towards the end of August.

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That's it for this post.

Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Vera Olah and Alex Olah
Canberra, Australia
Saturday 20 July 2019