Post #208 22 March 2020

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our visit to Jodhpur in Rajasthan State, India. We were there for two nights, 28 & 29 February 2020.

Jodhpur is also known as "The Blue City" because people of the Brahmin caste traditionally painted their houses blue. From what I could see (admittedly from a distance), perhaps 10% of the houses are blue.

We had a good look at the two principal tourist sites in Jodhpur: spectacular Mehrangarh Fort and huge Umaid Bhawan Palace.

It was only 180km from Pushkar to Jodhpur, but it took most of the day because we took some back roads to see the countryside; but even when we went back to the highway road-work slowed things down.  Since Jaipur the countryside has become dryer - not much agriculture.  There are some low hills, but mainly flat dry, poor soil, little vegetation. Lots of cows in the villages - many looked undernourished. Also many speed bumps, even on minor roads?

We noticed this bush when we left Jaipur - it is everywhere here.  Diwan said that it is a weed, has thorns, and only goats and camels can eat it.  We saw it often in Rajasthan.  Wonder what it's called?  It seems to grow in rough, dry soil, usually between 2 - 3 meters high. Stringy. It reminded me a little of blackberries in Australia - they take over the landscape - although not as thick.

A house we passed. Woman carrying a huge bundle on her head.

A small country hotel along the highway.

Most, if not all the highways seemed to be toll roads.

We stopped at the "Midway Restaurant" for lunch. It called itself a "glambing resort" - there were a number of tents set up where travellers could stay overnight.

We stayed in the Ummed Hotel on the outskirts of Jodhpur. It was a grand place (a bit like a palace), huge grounds, nice swimming pool.

The front entrance of the Ummed Hotel.

With the doorman of the Ummed Hotel.  Rajasthan is famous for its colourful turbans.

The foyer of the Ummed Hotel, with beautiful painted ceiling.

A TV shoot in the inner courtyard of the Ummed Hotel - perhaps a promotional video for the hotel?

Colourful saris of the women in the video shoot.

I had a swim in the big swimming pool at the back of the Ummed Hotel.  

You could even hire a horse to ride in the gardens of the Ummed Hotel - Vera declined!

Our first stop the next morning was the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort and Museum, built in 1459. Probably the most impressive fort we saw in India.  The Fort was built on a rocky outcrop 130m high, and the walls soar another 36m.  Impregnable - it was was not captured in its long history. 

We stopped at a lookout on the drive up to the Fort.

Some of the houses in the city.

Another photo of rooftops in Jodhpur. A few tinges of blue here and there.

It was interesting to see a pigsty.  We had only seen pigs once before. Chicken is the most popular meat - pork is rare. Diwan said pigs are raised only by the "Untouchable" caste. Of course Moslems don't eat pork, and Hindus don't eat beef (although beef is consumed in parts of southern India).

The Fort is located within large Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park, a national park.

Before reaching the Fort we stopped at the Jaswant Thada, a memorial to Maharaja Jaswant Singh built in 1899. It has some beautiful carved marble lattice screens and portraits of Rathore rulers going back to the 13th century. Then to the Fort itself ...

One of the impressive gates of Mehrangarh Fort.

Impressive - how did they ever build such a structure all those centuries ago???

The view of part of Jodhpur City from the battlements.

This part of the Fort housed a very good museum.

This boy became the Maharaja at an early age.

The Museum had an interesting collection of palanquins.

One of the beautiful royal palanquins.

Maharaja Takhat Singh (1843-73). He had 30 wives and many concubines (no wonder he died young!).

A school group outside the Fort.

After lunch we visited Umaid Bhawan Palace on the other side of the city from the Fort. Designed by British architect Henry Lanchester, construction took 15 years 1929-42.  The Palace is huge, comprising 365 rooms. Today it is divided into three parts: living quarters for the descendents of the royal family (current occupant is Gaj Singh); a luxury hotel; and a museum. We had a look at the Maharaja's collection of classic cars, and then went through the museum.

The former royal audience hall.

Another specatular room, now part of the Palace museum.

A fine collection of swords.

A poster of an exhibition of Jodhpur artifacts which toured the USA.

We were about to leave the Palace grounds at the end of our visit when the gates were suddenly closed.  Later we found out that we were caught up in a mock terrorist attack.  After about 30 minutes this group of soldiers arrived, and then 10 minutes later a group of armed policemen.  They "stormed" the Palace to rescue the hostages and capture the terrorists.

Waiting during the mock attack, with other visitors.

The cafe was working, and this group of Sikh students from the Punjab bought drinks and ice-creams. We were in situ for about an hour.  Diwan told that guards that we had a flight to catch, but they wouldn't let us out before the "all clear" was given.

From the Palace Diwan took us to (yet another) shop.

Huge collection of artifacts, but we were taken straight down to the carpet & textiles room, as that is where the big money is.

Mr Jain, aka 'Super Spruiker', presented his textiles and carpets to the group. He was a real professional!

In the end Vera & I bought a lovely silk carpet, and a Kenzo doona cover; mementos of our visit to India.

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The following morning we drove to Udaipur, our last stop in Rajasthan.  That will be the subject of my next post.

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A quick update on the coronavirus.

Global infections now 335,972 with 14,642 deaths; Australia 1,353 infections and 7 deaths.

The Australian Govt has closed all non-essential premises (only shops, chemists, petrol stations, and medical facilities will stay open).  A second (much bigger) stimulus package of $66 billion has been announced.

India will lock-down for 14 hours to test their preparedness. Looks as if we left just in time.  

Suddenly it's such a different world - what will the 'new normal' look like????

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Vera & Alex Olah

Canberra, Australia 

Monday 23 March 2020

(presently in 14 days self-isolation)