Post #151 21 October 2017

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our stay in Semarang, the capital of Central Java, on 19 & 20 August 2017.

Semarang is on the north coast of Java.  It is a city of over 2 - 3 million, and the political, commercial & industrial centre of Central Java. It has a large harbour and is a major shipping port.

This is the area where Islam arrived in the 15th century, and spread throughout Java.

Semarang is the capital of the Province of Central Java. Jogja has the status of a Special Municipality as recognition of the support provided by the Sultan during the War of Independence (1945-9).

Another view of Central Java showing the location of Borobudur Temple, Solo, and Salatiga in relation to Semarang on the north coast.

A slum area in Semarang was given a "rainbow" make-over, and has become a tourist attraction,

This impressive building in Semarang was the headquarters of Dutch Railways before Independence. It is called Lawang Sewu ("Thousand doors").  Dutch engineers did an amazing job building an extensive network of railroads (of course using Indonesian labour), mainly to facilitate the movement of agricultural products to ports. 

Another view of Lawang Sewu.  It was occupied by Japanese military during WW2, with interrogation cells in the basement.

Inside Lew Sewa.  The building has been nicely renovated and is now a major tourist attraction.  It had so many doors and windows to facilitate air-flow (Semarang can be steamy).

Beautiful stained glass windows, and marble staircase.

An old steam engine in the grounds of Lawang Sewu - great for kids.

We got a taxi to drive us around Semarang Harbour - lots of wooden-hulled schooners (pinisi) which still ply these waters.

The parking lot outside KFC.  We were amazed at the number of motor bikes everywhere we went.  Given the traffic conditions in Indonesia, and the lack of good public transport, motor bikes are a good, and relatively inexpensive, way of getting around.

Another attraction is the huge Sam Poo Temple dedicated to Admiral Zheng He who visited Java several times, the first in 1405.  He was a Chinese Moslem, and seems to be revered in Semarang where he is called Sam Poo (we also saw a temple and museum dedicated to him in Malacca, Malaysia). We were surprised to see many local Indonesians visiting this temple in Semarang.

A large statue of Admiral Zheng He (1371 - 1433).  A fascinating story. He grew up as a Moslem in Yunnan, was captured at the age of 10, castrated and became a eunuch in the Ming Court; gained the Yongle Emperor's trust; he led seven great voyages through South-East Asia, the Middle East and down the coast of Africa.   

The main pavilion in the Sam Poo Temple is classically Chinese with pagoda-style roofs, huge drums and hanging lanterns. 

Vera in front of the main Pavilion.

Some of the fine stone carving showing the visit to Semarang of Zheng He.

Some Javanese folk dances were performed for visitors to the Temple.

Another interesting area of Semarang is the "Outstadt" (Old City). Blenduk Dutch Reformed Church was built in 1753; has a huge cupola.

The caretaker showed us around the church (for a fee, which we noticed he pocketed). 

The unusual wooden pulpit in the Church. It also featured a large organ. 

On the other side of the Square from Blenduk Church is the Spiegel Building, an old general store now fully renovated and now a popular restaurant. 

Inside the Speigel Restaurant.  We had gelato ice cream - delicious.  

Just up the street from the Spiegel is the Semarang Gallery, an art gallery housed in a renovated old Dutch warehouse.

Some of the modern art on display in the Semarang Gallery.

About 500 m from the Spiegl, on another street, was an impressive Catholic church.

A view of the inside of the Catholic Church. Good condition.

We had dinner one night in the Holliday Restaurant, reputed to serve the best Chinese food in Semarang; it was certainly delicious and not expensive (about $25 for two of us).

Outside the main entrance of the Holliday Restaurant.

We stayed near an area called Simpang Lima (Five Roads). It was lively at night with lots of small restaurants and family entertainment. People could hire trishaws which were decorated and lit up.

There were also little motorised cars for kids.

The supervised area where kids drove their small motorised cars.

A brass band provided entertainment.  All in all, there was a good atmosphere with lots of people, including families, walking around.

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We had two nights in Semarang, and then drove to Jepara - the subject of my next post.

While in Semarang we tried to visit the factory of Jamu Nyonya Meeneer, a famous "Jamu" (traditional herbal medicine drink) company.  But, alas, the factory gates were closed and a sign proclaimed the company's bankruptcy.  Women street vendors carrying large sacks on their backs full of bottles of jamu used to be a common sight, but no more.

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Alex & Vera Olah
Canberra, Australia
Saturday, 21 October 2017