Post #148 7 October 2017

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our visit to Surabaya and Malang in East Java, 3 - 7 August 2017.

Surabaya is the second largest city in Indonesia (and the capital of East Java), but much smaller and more laid-back than Jakarta. Vera was born in Surabaya and the family moved to Bali (Klungkung) when she was 4 years old. She lived in Bali until she went to University in Jogja.

We flew from Bali to Surabaya, a one hour flight.  Met at the airport by Vera's cousin Arthur Simadibrata and his wife Annie; we stayed with them for two nights, then they drove us to Malang and showed us around Malang-Batu as well.  Two lovely people, great hosts and very kind.

Surabaya, Indonesia's second largest city, has relatively few tall buildings. In 20 years time it will be wall-to-wall high-rise buildings, just like in China; population pressure is so great that they will have to build up rather than out.

We had two nights in Surabaya, then Arthur and Annie drove us to Malang.  It is only about 100 km but took 3 hours; there is a toll road which goes about half-way and that was fine, but the last 40 km we just crawled along.

Vera with Annie and Arthur (Vera's cousin); both retired; they showed us around Surabaya and looked after us very well.

We visited the old historic Hotel Majapahit which was the leading hotel under the Dutch; was opened in 1910 by Eugene Louis Sarkies. It has been very well preserved, and was a delight to inspect.

The well-kept gardens of the Hotel Majapahit.

Colonnaded walkways of the historic Hotel Majapahit.

Annie and Vera in the tastefully furnished lounge area of the Hotel Majapahit.

Dinner with Arthur and Annie, their son Michael and his wife, and Arthur's brother Robert and his wife and daughter.

Arthur and Annie's son, Michael, has a flower business which he started while at university. 

Michael's workshop where he employs about ten staff. He doesn't have a regular flower shop (ie doesn't sell retail); he makes up flower arrangements against firm orders.  He said it was not uncommon for rich Indonesians to spend $500+ on flowers to celebrate a special occasion such as a birthday or anniversary.  His 'value-add' is innovative design.  He admitted that he would like to try some other business, but "the profit in flowers is too good".

The three largest manufacturers of kretek (clove) cigarettes are Sampoerna (now owned by Philip Morris), Gudam Garam and Djarum.  The headquarters of Sampoerna are in Surabaya and incorporates a museum which we visited. Here is Annie pretending to run a stall selling Dji Sam Soe, one of their biggest brands.

A poster promoting Dji Sam Soe kretek cigarettes, featuring bull races on Madura Island.  The Museum was full of fascinating stuff.  There is a cafe next door, also housed in a Colonial-era building, and we had afternoon tea there.

Every Saturday morning a group of about 20 couples walk for an hour and then have breakfast in the carpark of a local school.  Everyone brings 'a plate' - delicious!

Arthur and Annie attended a wedding in Surabaya, and we tagged along.  An impressive Catholic Church.  

The bride wore a lovely wedding dress with a long train.  During the ceremony the train got too close to a candle, and started smoldering; luckily one of the groomsmen noticed and quickly put it out.  

The church choir sang during the service - very nice.

On the way to Malang we stopped at Porong to look at the Lapindo site.  Om 29 May 2006 P.T. Lapindo Brantas was drilling for oil/gas when the well blew. Hot, stinking mud inundated surrounding villages. Special retaining walls/levees had to be built to stop the mud spreading (in some places 10 metres deep!). The mud affected a number of villages covering an area of 1,200 hectares. The nearby Porong River has been severely polluted.  It was, and is, an ecological and social disaster to this day.

In Malang we stayed in Fendi's Guest House, and old Dutch residence whose original name was Schoonzicht = nice view.  These days it is in the middle of the city, and the only view is of shops and restaurants on Jalan Kawi.  Malang is about 500 metres above sea level, so a cooler and more pleasant climate than Surabaya.

Fendi's Guest House was full of "old stuff" including these wall hangings. Good atmosphere.

Jalan Besar Ijen is an attractive boulevard in Malang, lined with Dutch-era houses many restored to their former glory.   The street is closed to traffic on Sunday mornings - lots of families and kids wandering about.

Annie and Vera posing in front of St Mary's, an impressive Catholic Church.  The banners in the background mark the 72nd anniversary of Indonesia's independence which is celebrated on 17 August every year.

Arthur, Annie and Vera in one of the lovely public gardens.

We had a look at the Shalimar Boutique Hotel which is in a tastefully refurbished old Dutch building.

This photo was on the wall of the Shalimar Hotel - it started life as the local Masonic Temple, 100 years ago!

We had a look at the Splendid Inn - great name, isn't it? - which was a leading hotel 50 years ago but has now fallen on hard times.

Lunch in popular Madam Wang's restaurant. From left, Caleb, Arthur, Annie, Lance (Caleb's wife and another of Vera's cousins), Vera and me.

One of the dishes in Madam Wang's restaurant.  Well presented and delicious food. From the name I expected Chinese food, but it was mainly Indonesian cuisine.

We spent a day exploring Batu, a hill resort town about 20 km from Malang.  Batu is a popular weekend get-away for people in Surabaya and Malang. Visited the impressive and large Jambuluwuk Resort.

Free standing villas for rent at the Jambuluwuk Resort.

We also visited the recently opened Batu Flower Garden, built on a steep hillside overlooking Batu.  It's still a work in progress.

One of the attractions was the 'I Love You' sign overlooking the valley; cost the equivalent of $1 to access the sign.

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We had a most enjoyable 5 days in Surabaya and Malang - helps if you know people and they show you around. 

On Tuesday 8 August we caught the train from Malang to Jogja (full name Yogyakarta, but most people just call it Jogja) in Central Java and regarded as the cultural centre of Java.

Jogja will be the subject of my next post.

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Best wishes, stay well and keep smiling.

Alex & Vera Olah

Canberra, Australia

Saturday 7 October 2017.