Post #216 1 April 2020

Gentlefolk,

This post describes our drive from Thekkady to Alleppey and our time on the houseboat on the 'backwaters'.  We spent the night of Thursday 12 March on the houseboat.

Kerala State has a population of about 35 million, and covers an area of almost 40,000 sq km. The main language is Malayalam; Eugine told us that it is quite different from Tamil.

What struck us immediately was that 80% of the signs in towns and villages were in English, very different from all the other places we visited in India.

Other things that struck us were the number of Christian (mainly Catholic) churches, and the huge billboards on the sides of the roads often advertising gold jewellry or schools / universities.

Kerala has the highest literacy rate in India, and also the longest life expectancy.

The Communist Party of Kerala was democratically elected for the first time in 1957, and has been in-and-out of power ever since. It is currently the government - new elections next year.

Another striking aspect of Kerala were the many lakes and waterways.

We drove from Tekkady (in mountains) to Alleppey (near the coast); the first part included picturesque tea plantations.  These tea plantations often had trees (silk oak??) growing in them - Eugine said they provided shade for the plants - different from Indonesia where there are no trees within tea plantations.

Women picking tea leaves. I can't remember what Eugine told us they earned per basket of leaves picked, but it wasn't much.

We stopped at this lovely Catholic church.

We passed a cattle & buffalo market. While the majority of people are Hindu, Eugine said that cows don't have quite the same sacred status as in northern India - some restaurants openly offer beef / steak. 

Further down there were rubber plantations.

We stopped at Cafe En Route. Clean facilities and good tea/coffee. We often saw familiar faces at these stops, groups or couples driving the same route as us.

We stopped at a Govt Liquor Store - Eugine recommended we stock up here for our night on the houseboat; cheaper than other shops.

Eugine helped Bryan buy some snacks.

Eugine warned us that in Kerala restaurants are often referred to as hotels, as in this sign.  Note that most signs were in English. 

In Alleppey we boarded our houseboat, The Casino.  It was one of the largest houseboats, so the four single ladies were able to have a cabin each (the four couples shared cabins, of course). The houseboat had a crew of 5, including a chef (who had worked in Dubai and Kuala Lumpur). The cabins (all with ensuites) were on the lower level. Upstairs comprised a large dining / recreation room.

Saying goodbye to Eugine. He didn't come on the houseboat, went on to Kochi (his home town), where he met us the following morning.

There was a narrow space on the top level, and another larger sitting area downstairs behind the captain.

Lunch was served once we were underway. Lake fish.

Attractive decoration by the chef.

Lining up for lunch.

We saw lots of houseboats. Apparently there are about 3,000 (of varying sizes) moored at Alleppey and more in other towns on the lakes. Cruising the 'backwaters' is a popular pastime with foreign and local tourists.

We stopped along the way to buy some fish.

Coconut palms, rice paddies.

A public ferry boat.

Advertising for the Communist Party. It was first elected to government in Kerala in 1957, and has been in and out of government since (it is currently the majority Party in the State Parliament - elections next year).

Boys playing soccer.

At about 6pm we moored next to this village. Dinner, then bed. In the morning, breakfast and back to Alleppey to get our bus. During the night four of us came down with "the trots", including myself. Delhi belly!!!  I woke at 4am, and just made the toilet.  Luckily it wasn't too far till Kochi, our final destination in India.

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The following morning we drove to Kochi (aka Cochin), the subject of my next post.

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Best wishes, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Vera & Alex Olah
Canberra Australia
Wednesday 1 April 2020.